Model UAV: RD26 (Codenamed: Spear )
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Current Objectives for this Model
- Build a TMF Pro VC450 based GoPro platform - done
- Integrate EagleTree system
- Integrate Spektrum TM1000 Telem system - done
- Integrate Switchable Lighting System - Done
Model Components
Air Frame: Hoverthings VC-450
Flight Controller: TMF AQ50D Pro aka FH-X46
RD26, aka Spear (Codenamed Spear from the Irish word "spéir" meaning sky) Is a blue CV540 frame, modified to shave a few cm off the motor to motor distance as with RD16. This will be a custom built AP/AV platform for my brother Bam, who has patiently waited for 2 years for me to deliver something worthy. Bam flies with a Spektrum DX8 and has both the TM100 telem system and a full on EagleTree OSD w/ acc system. I will try and incorporate both into the model. This airframe was chose for its briliant design, and its ability to withstand some crazy crashes with little or no damage. It has also proven to be a very compatible airfram for hauling a go pro and a myriad of other gear. As an added bonus I intend to make this unit FPV ready as well.
RD26 - Spear - Build begins
This build begins with the unpackaging of the frame kit and extras. The Hoverthings products are seriously well built and packaged very nicely. First is the main frame:
Then there is the Camera mount plate, this little baby gives us an easy way to mount both a GoPro and an FPV camera (if you dont use live gopro out) and lastly, this frees up the stock plate to act as a head end protection plate.
Next , Unpacking all the parts lay out all the parts for clarity, This time around I found that the edges of the G10 were pretty rough, and can use a bit of sanding and grinding to smooth them out so they are not so hard on your bare hands if you are hand launching or catching, or just plain carrying the quad. This is not typical of Tom and His frames, but I know that he has been pressured for months to get theis recent bacthc out so that maight account for the rough edges, regardless, it would only be a few spots to sand, no points lost to this.
We now build the bottom plate. Typically I will put the first set of screws in good and tight, and leave the next set loose.
We add the main plate to the bottom plate, this time I only add a few screws and I only put them in 1 or 2 turns, this allows us to snap the arm side peices into the main plates very easily.
Now as we add the arms, I screw in the main screw into the plate for each arm so it wont fall out while I am building.
Support braces for the arms go in, these aluminium parts work very well and the screws stay in very nicely without glue, however, I will be instructing the client to remove and glue (Blue locktite) each and every screw.
Now 4 legs are built
Installing the first two legs
All the legs are on
4 motors are built
4 motors installed (Notice that the motor mounts are backwards, this is intentional as I have found that doing this, decreases the overall ability of the props to cut things, and according to aerodynamic dogma, having the arm extend out past the motors smooths the turbulence in the rotorwash making take off and landing smoother.
4 ESCs are in
Test fitting the fight controller
RD26 - Spear - Build session 2 and test flights
We start this build session with a Tupperware container, Most multirotor pilots are not fond of this technique as it does not protect the flight controller very much in a hard crash, but we live in the subarctic and out winters last a long time, so using this technique is more about snow and moisture protection than about physical protection. When I build these models with a tupperware type container, I make sure that when the model is upside down that the 4 motors touch the floor as well as the Tupperware container, that way if there really is a crash, motors and arms will take the load.
Next I drill a series of holes, the outer set will be for the standoffs that hold the FC, while the inner 4 holes align with the inside 4 screws holding the main frame together. The center hold is for wires and matches the center hole of the frame.
Using nylon screws and standoffs, we start to assemble our canopy base.
The screws
and the standoffs are from hobby king
Standoffs are installed
Now we will mount it by removing the screws from the frame
when they are out we are ready to mount the canopy base.
all the holes line up
Here I attach the base (the first of many times)
The I take it off and add some rubber vibration dampers
Change the screws out for longer screws
And mount it for the last time.
Test fit the FC
Mount the RX module and the Telem module with Velcro
Mount the Spektrum Sat with velcro as well.
so far so good.
Now I need to build some kind of power distribution system, I have had good success with this style on the vc-450 before. So I solder them up and throw on some heat shrink.
I crimp the edges of the heat shrink with my hemostats, this creates a grippable edge to the plugs making it easier to hold in tight spots.
The finished harness
Now we remove the bottom plate (again one of many times during this build) and install the power distribution, and route the ESC cables up to the canopy.
Now everything is exactly where I want it. we need to put the bottom plate back on.
But first lets put the battery strap in, This is a particular type of strap I prefer, and I was saving this one for this build :)
Now the plate is installed again.
I need to mount the GoPro so I modify a standard flat surface mount receptacle for the GoPro so that you can access the screw to remove the plate after the mount is adhered to the bottom plate.
Now the GoPro is mounted. It is turned about 2 degrees away from straight forward because the actual lens is off center so if you put the GoPro on straight, you will see a leg on one side.
Here we mount the LiPo and test the strap, works perfect.
The main build is now complete, time for test flights and tuning
Test flights confirm that this model will easily handle the 5000 mAh lipo and GoPro payload with 1045 EPPs
RD26 aka "Spear" Lights up!
In this build session I added a lighting system to the quad, I started by cutting two strips of white lights for the front view, and one long red strip for the rear view, on the right of the craft a blue strip and on the left, yellow. Into this lighting system, I included a receiver controlled switch, so you can turn the lights on and off. Lastly, I added a lost model alarm to the circuit, so if the quad crashes and looses connection with the radio, it will beep until the battery dies.
I start by measuring everything and soldering it all up. Here it is all laid out.
Here it is lit up
Now without flash
rear view
side view
front view
After I finished I took it for a test flight seemed to fly nice (in the living room).
RD26 aka Spear gets a new home and owner too
THis model has been deliverd to my brother Bam who will be flying this around his hometown of Hay River, and at last I have another Multirotor pilot within 1000km of me :)
Model Flight Logs
Newest at the top, oldest at the bottom.
tied using 2 cheaper 3s 2200 mAh lipos, in parallel but only got 3:25 before the alarm started ggoing, battereis cant handle the current draw.
Testing the quad in -20C no wind, with small 3S battery , short flight with full lights on, but solid control. Testing new wingcam for testflights.
no payload, this flight was on 3S 2200 with no payload, testing new battery strap.
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